BAJ Insight: Seven incroyable jewels from Paris Couture Week | BAJ

BAJ Insight: Seven incroyable jewels from Paris Couture Week

BAJ Insight: Seven incroyable jewels from Paris Couture Week

Join us for our weekly BAJ:Insight on the latest industry trends by Rachael Taylor, a freelance journalist who writes about jewellery for a number of titles, including The Financial Times, The Jewellery Editor and Retail Jeweller. In her 10 years reporting on the industry, she has travelled the globe to visit key industry fairs, descended a Fairtrade gold mine on top of a Peruvian mountain, toured silver jewellery factories in Thailand, and regularly has access to the most sparkling jewels and people in the business.

Twice a year some of the biggest names in high jewellery – or haute joaillerie as the French say – hop on the back of Paris Couture Fashion Week to unveil new collections. This is a time for press and private clients to gather and marvel at the skill and artistry of the historic maisons (and buy!).

Paris Couture Fashion Week 2018

 

Place Vendôme, the city’s luxury jewellery hub, is busy with showcases, and the well-heeled attendees they attract. I joined in with the melee to see what new innovations jewellers like Chamet and Chanel had to offer, and these are some of the most interesting jewels I spotted during a fast-paced one-day trip to Paris.

Place Vendôme

 

A gold, diamond and carved beryl bracelet from the L’Espirit du Lion collection by Chanel

This cuff will make the gem cutters amongst you want to weep. With sensuously smooth lines carved into a bright and glossy beryl, it is a triumph. The expression on this lion’s face, which features throughout the collection in many guises (set with diamonds, mostly), took Chanel artisans six months to perfect.

 

Chanel

 

A gold, diamond and carved beryl bracelet from the L’Espirit du Lion collection by Chanel

 

Aluminum, gold and diamond Edison’s Enlightenment earrings by Suzanne Syz

Swiss jeweller Suzanne Syz was experimenting with aluminum in high jewellery long before it was trendy to include at least one titanium jewel in every new launch. Sticking true to her roots, she presented new variations on her colourful theme, including these earrings. The colour is simply electric, and is a perfect match for the coolness of white gold and white diamonds.

 

Swiss jeweller – Suzanne Syz

 

Aluminium, gold and diamond Edison’s Enlightenment earrings by Suzanne Syz

 

Emerald, diamond and gold necklace from the Precious Chopard collection by Chopard

One of the hardest feats for an artist who works with solid metal is to make it look soft as silk, as this diamond and emerald necklace does. Despite the weight of the stones, the almost-invisible lattice of white gold settings has been created with enough articulation so that it clings to décolletage like a satin glove to a hand.

Chopard

 

Emerald, diamond and gold necklace from the Precious Chopard collection by Chopard

 

Padparadascha sapphire and diamond ring from the Les Mondes de Chaumet – Promenades Impériales collection by Chaumet

As we mentioned in this week’s Digest, Princess Eugenie’s new engagement ring is set with a Padparadascha sapphire, and it is also a stone that is popular in haute joaillerie. The pinkish tones of this faceted Padparadascha sapphire are further enhanced by using complementary rose gold settings rather than the cool white gold that has been used to hold the diamonds. Another interesting design note: some of the diamonds that appear to be small marquise-cut stones are actually two tiny round brilliants set within a navette-shaped setting, creating an illusion.

Chaumet

 

Padparadascha sapphire and diamond ring from the Les Mondes de Chaumet – Promenades Impériales collection by Chaumet

 

Rose gold and brown diamond ring from the Fluid Captured collection by Dauphin

One of the youngest jewellery brands to show during Paris Couture Week was Dauphin, and its approach to diamonds is blissfully youthful. These are high jewellery pieces that you are supposed to play with. The mesh of diamonds – brown diamonds set in rose gold to create a warm palate – are fixed to the band of the ring on a ball fitting, allowing them to swing 360 degrees to match the flow of the wearer’s hand.

 

Dauphin

 

Rose gold and brown diamond ring from the Fluid Captured collection by Dauphin

 

Rubellite diamond and gold necklace from the Dior à Versailles, pièces secrètes collection by Dior

Dior’s latest creative trip to the Palace of Versailles (it’s third and final) led designer Victoire de Castellane to obsess over the secrets that had been kept within those walls over the years. This resulted in a jewellery collection with lots of hidden extras. One way she achieved this was to hide engravings – or in this case, a skull made from black diamonds – beneath semi-transparent gemstones. This ring has a pear-shaped rubellite gripped by multiple rose gold claws. You can tell something is beneath, but it is not until the hinged gem is lifted that you can tell exactly what it is.

Dior

 

Rubellite diamond and gold necklace from the Dior à Versailles, pièces secrètes collection by Dior

 

Rhodochrosite, spinel, sapphire and ruby earrings from the Rosa del Inca collection by Lydia Courteille

Pink! Do I need another reason to love this beautiful pair of Inca/Aztec-inspired earrings? Ok, well how about rhodochrosite? Lydia discovered this gem when she was on holiday in Argentina, where it was widely available, and decided to make a collection starring this sweetie-pink gem. These fan-shaped earrings set the stone against rose gold, spinels, pink sapphires, orange sapphires and rubies. As well as being beautiful to look at, this lovely gem also symbolizes self love and is said to be a talisman of joy, healing and reaching one’s full potential.

 

Lydia Courteille

 

Rhodochrosite, spinel, sapphire and ruby earrings from the Rosa del Inca collection by Lydia Courteille

 

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