Partnership with W.M Opals connects mining, cutting, and jewellery design and manufacturing
Ancient opalised fossils formed over millions of years in Australian mining regions are being transformed into contemporary jewellery at the British Academy of Jewellery (BAJ) through a partnership with UK-based opal specialist W.M Opals.
Sourced directly from Australian mining communities and cut in the UK by W.M Opals founder William McMellin, who has hands-on experience mining black opal in Lightning Ridge, New South Wales, each specimen has been prepared specifically for the project.
Fossilised opals, numbered for selection, challenge students to respond directly to natural form by adapting to the irregular shapes, subtle colouration, and geological structure of each fossil, rather than standardised gemstone material.
“It’s challenging because every piece is completely different. You can’t plan everything — you have to adapt your design to the material as you go.”
“I didn’t actually know anything about opals. So, he brought this vibe. There’s a lot of information about what it is that people didn’t know about.
In jewellery, the industry is so focused on diamonds, and what is precious about them when, actually, it’s not at all, but with opals, he’s given ratios, numbers, and dates about this special stone. I’ve never thought about it like that, and I love it. I think the colour element of an opal, as well, makes it more unique and makes it more personal.”
– Reem Grwan, Student, Level 4 Jewellery Design and Manufacturing, BAJ
The collaboration gives students insight into the full journey of the material — from mining through to the finished piece. McMellin’s work focuses on direct relationships with miners and UK-based cutting, bringing that process into the design experience.
“I am very excited to work with the BAJ Level 4 students this year as their industry sponsor. We’re offering a really unique experience, giving the students the opportunity to work with Ancient opalised fossils sourced from Lightning Ridge Australia.
Albeit a fossil is not your typical gemstone, the purpose is to encourage them to go back to their roots as jewellers and designers, forcing them to design a piece of jewellery around the stone, drawing their inspiration from its form and history. I have a soft spot for free form jewellery and I look forward to seeing what the students produce.”
Each BAJ student is expected to respond directly to the fossil, interpreting its character, structure, and origin. The resulting pieces may take the form of a ring, brooch, neckpiece, or more experimental wearable object.
The project includes industry input at key stages, from briefing and design development to making-stage feedback and final exhibition. This reflects real working practice and allows students to engage directly with an active industry specialist.
“Working directly with a practising miner and cutter gives students insight into sourcing, material decision-making, and professional standards. It encourages them to think about the ethical sourcing of the materials they are working with and the importance of knowing where those materials come from.
Responding to these unconventional opalised fossils, prepared by William specifically for the project, means students are designing with and for the stone, allowing its form, structure, and history to guide the making process. As a live project, it also gives them real-world experience of working directly with a client.”
– Bekkie Ora Cheeseman, Manufacture Lead. HE Lecturer
The final pieces will be presented in a dedicated exhibition, where ancient fossil material is reinterpreted as contemporary wearable jewellery. Three cut and polished Australian opals, donated by W.M Opals, will be awarded as prizes, with selected works also featured in BAJ’s end-of-year show.
BAJ’s Jewellery Design and Manufacturing course combines jewellery design development, technical training, and industry collaboration across Levels 3, 4, and 5, with Level 3 providing a strong foundation, Level 4 opening up contextual exploration through live projects and industry engagement, and Level 5 developing advanced practice and specialism.
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